Coconut oil has been hailed a miracle cure; antimicrobial, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory, with devotees adding it to everything from their morning coffee to their oral hygiene routine.
But is coconut oil really all that healthy? And is there any real evidence it can help lower cholesterol and keep infections at bay?
Sales of coconut oil continue to surge in the UK, with over £16m spent on the trendy product each year.
Celebrity endorsements have, of course, helped fuel its popularity, but registered nutritionist Grace Kingswell says the reality is more nuanced than the hype suggests.
When it comes to so-called superfoods, coconut oil ticks all the boxes – but it is extremely high in saturated fat and is nowhere near as anti-inflammatory as olive oil.
In fact, the American Heart Association even warned that butter and lard are better options, given just how much artery-clogging saturated fat the oil contains.
But where it lacks in polyphenols and healthy fats, it’s packed full of brain boosting compounds, research shows.
So, who is right? Even if coconut oil really is oozing saturated fat, is that necessarily a bad thing? And should we consider swapping out our cooking oils?
Coconut oil may be high in saturated fat – but experts say this isn’t necessarily a bad thing
It’s great brain fuel
Coconut oil is perhaps best known for its anti-inflammatory properties, but according to Kingswell, one of its biggest health benefits is often overlooked.
‘Coconut oil has a unique fatty acid profile in that it contains medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs) which bypass normal digestion and go straight to the liver, where they are rapidly converted into energy.’
These MCTs are converted into ketones, which can then be used as an energy source by the brain.
While no studies have yet found they can prevent dementia, some evidence suggests there may be short-term cognitive benefits from taking MCTs – including for patients with dementia – and coconut oil has them in abundance.
Coconut oil also contains high levels of Vitamin E, an antioxidant that is also highly beneficial for skin and hair health, and small amounts of Vitamin K which is needed for blood clotting.
Coconut oil can increase cholesterol
The glossy white oil may have myriad health benefits, but according to one leading Harvard professor, Dr Karin Michels, it’s ‘one of the worst foods you can eat.’
Her reasoning for such a bold claim is that research shows the oil not only increases ‘good’ cholesterol, it also drives up bad cholesterol.
There’s around 117 to 120 calories per standard tablespoon of coconut oil – a 100g portion contains a whopping 862 calories.
Because coconut oil is pure fat, there are 0 grams of sugar, carbohydrates, fibre or protein.
Hi, I’m Emma Bardwell, a nutritionist with more than 15 years’ experience helping people improve their health and lose weight.
I’ve been there. I was overweight, unhappy with my skin and stuck in a rut. Then I changed the way I eat. You can now do the same with my tried-and-tested healthy eating plan. And for DailyMail+ subscribers, it’s completely free.
With saturated fat levels around a third higher than butter, the trendy oil could contribute to heart disease risk, she warns.
There’s also little evidence that the rise in good HDL cholesterol outweighs the rise in the bad stuff.
While Kingswell doesn’t subscribe to labelling cholesterol as ‘good’ and ‘bad’ – as it massively depends on an individual’s other health markers – she agrees that we need to be mindful of how much saturated fat we are consuming.
‘Coconut oil is a saturated fat,’ she says, ‘which is why I probably wouldn’t add it to something like coffee, but it’s not inherently bad.
‘We don’t need to make an exception for coconut oil – other than to say in its virgin, organic form, it’s definitely going to be more pro-health than a heavily refined or partially hydrogenated fat.
‘But used in moderate amounts, in cooking or baking is absolutely fine – and in some cases may be preferable to other fats.’
Yes it’s a saturated fat, but that makes it great for cooking at high temperatures
The world of cooking oils is a confusing one, with even familiar oils embroiled in controversy.
While unsaturated fats such as olive oil are generally considered healthier, saturated fats like coconut oil are more chemically stable.
‘Coconut oil is one of the safest oils to cook with, especially at high temperatures,’ Kingswell explains.
‘Its chemical structure makes it really robust and safe to cook with, because even at high temperatures, its structure doesn’t change.
‘By comparison, when we cook with something like olive oil – which contains a very volatile double bond – the fats in the oil start to break down.’
Studies have shown that heating oils above their smoke point – around 180 degrees Celsius for olive oil – can release toxic chemical by-products, so not only will it taste bitter, it could be detrimental for your health.
But Kingswell says a lot of it comes down to personal preference.
‘To get the best benefits in terms of anti-oxidants, you want to use cold pressed olive oil, in its most organic form.
‘Budget also plays a role, with extra-virgin olive oil often a lot more expensive than regular olive oil. For this reason, coconut oil is a really nice alternative to cook with.’
It could give you a better smile and boost your oral hygiene
Gwyneth Paltrow is a fan of ‘oil pulling’ (left); while Sofia Vergara uses the oil as a moisturiser
Oil pulling – where people swill liquid oil around their mouths – has taken the wellness world by storm, and has been crowed about by the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow. Similarly, Sofia Vergara has praised the vitamin-rich oil for her supple skin, telling media that it’s her moisturiser of choice.
But is there actually any evidence that the ancient practice helps to draw out harmful bacteria and toxins?
‘Oil pulling is something I’m a big fan of,’ says Kingswell.
‘Coconut oil contains lauric acid, known for its antimicrobial and antibacterial properties, so when we swish it around our mouth, it really helps to control the balance of bacteria in there.
‘We now know just how important the oral microbiome is for systemic health. The mouth is the gateway to the entire gastrointestinal tract, so we can’t ignore what’s going on in our mouths if we want to support our gut.’
One study found that people with gum disease who oil-pulled with coconut oil for 30 days were able to reduce the amounts of plaque in their mouth, while showing overall improvements in gum health.
Given coconut oil’s anti-inflammatory properties, experts say it’s plausible that it may help alleviate the symptoms of gingivitis – like sore, bleeding gums – by reducing inflammation.
Either way, Kingswell concluded: ‘It’s really important to keep on top of our oral hygiene and coconut oil pulling is a really good way to do this, alongside brushing twice a day and flossing.’
And that’s not its only beauty benefit. Actress Sofia Vergara claims that she uses it as a moisturiser and hair conditioner.
Adding coconut oil to coffee isn’t a health hack
The aim of ‘bulletproof coffee’ is to bulletproof your body against fatigue, flab and chronic disease. But according to Kingswell there is little to no evidence to back this up
Cast your mind back a decade or so and you might remember where you were when ‘bulletproof coffees’ went mainstream.
The wellness trend involves adding tablespoons of fat – usually in the form of coconut oil or grass-fed butter – to your coffee, turning it into a ‘fat black’, or ‘bulletproof’ coffee.
Proponents of the trend claim it can help you lose weight, allowing you to maintain a state of ketosis – where you body is forced to burn fat instead of carbohydrates for energy – without eating anything.
But Kingswell is sceptical.
‘Ultimately, there is no benefit to adding tablespoons of fat to your coffee,’ she says.
‘The idea is that the fat can help the body absorb certain nutrients better. But for this to happen you would need to be eating those nutrients alongside it, rather than drinking it on an empty stomach.
‘The bottom line is, you’re going to get way more from a lovely plate of food that’s colourful and diverse than you are from replacing your breakfast with a fatty coffee.’
